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Frequently asked questions
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A
Applique
Embellishment on a garment where decoration is made by cutting pieces of one material and applying them to the surface of another.
Argyle
A popular design for knitted fabrics (both hand and machine knit) most often used on sweaters and socks. Usually, two or three colors appear in this diamond-shaped plaid pattern named for the tartan of a clan in the county of Argyll, western Scotland.
Back to top
B
Basketweave
A weaving variation that imitates the appearance of a basket.
Batik
A traditional Indonesian textile printing method in which a design is drawn on the fabric in melted wax, covering areas that are not to be dyed. After dyeing is completed, the wax is removed.
Bird's Eye Check
A fabric woven with a pattern of small diamonds, each having a dot in the center.
Binding
A strip of fabric sewn over or attached along an edge, to secure or protect.
Blended Yarn
Yarn made from two or more fibers.
Bouclé
A fancy novelty yarn that creates a loopy, textural surface in knitting.
Back to top
C
Cable Stitch
A raised knitting stitch resembling twisted rope.
Calfskin Leather
Exceptionally fine, soft, tanned leather made from the hide of a calf.
Canvas
A strong, durable, closely woven cotton fabric popular for raincoats, handbags and boots. Originally made of unbleached hemp of flax used for sails, tents, etc. Today made in lightweight version with a soft and much drapier feel.
Carefree
Any time you see the name Carefree, expect an easy-care, machine-washable fabric. You'll find wrinkle-resistant 100% microfibers.
Cashmere
The fine, soft underfleece of cashmere goat native to the Himalayas.
Chambray
Plain weave, yarn-dyed fabric, traditionally made from cotton, having a white weft and a colored warp.
Chenille [sheh-NEEL]
Soft, fuzzy yarns stand out around a velvety cord on this fabric, whose name comes from the French word for "caterpillar." Used for bedspreads, rugs, bathrobes, and more recently, loose-fitting sweaters.
Combed cotton
Cotton fabric with a silk-like hand. Considered superior to basic carded cotton.
Cotton Fleece
Knit fabric with a pile face that, when cut and brushed, has a fleece-like surface.
Crepe
Used to describe all kinds of fabrics - wool, cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics and blends - that have a crinkly, crimped or grained surface. From the French word creper, which means "to crimp or frizz."
Crochet
The use of a single hooked needle to create fabric from a continuous series of yarn loops. From the French word for hook.
Cross-dyed
A term that refers to fabric in which the warp yarns are dyed in one color and the cross yarns are dyed another color to achieve a multi-colored or iridescent effect.
Cutwork
Embroidery in which a design is outlined in buttonhole stitch and the enclosed material cut away.
Back to top
D
Darts
V-shaped tucks used to make a garment conform to the body.
Dobby
Type of woven fabric that contains simple geometric forms or motifs, where the design on the fabric is created in the weaving process.
Double Knit
Fabric knitted with two sets of needles, producing a twice-knitted appearance. Double knit jerseys have a firmer texture than conventional jerseys of single needle construction and are usually heavier, although they can be knitted in very light weights.
Drop Needle
A type of knit cut and sew fabric where some of the needles are "dropped out."
Back to top
E
Easy Care
Fabrics that have been treated so that they do not need ironing.
Egyptian Cotton
A general classification for strong, lustrous, long-staple cotton produced largely in the Nile Valley, although it is grown elsewhere in the world as well. Egyptian cotton staples are one and one-eighth to one and one-half inches long.
Embroidery
Fancy needlework or trimming consisting of colored yarn, embroidery floss, soft cotton, silk or metallic thread. Although hand embroidery is still a widely practiced craft, most commercially produced embroidered clothes are made by machine.
Engineered print
Also called a placed print because it is integrated into a specific area of the design. Border prints are often engineered into place.
European-length
A short length that falls just above the knee. Also referred to as Bermuda length.
Back to top
F
Facing
A piece of fabric sewn to the inside of a garment for lining purposes or to add structure to the garment.
Fair Isle
A traditional type of knitted design from Scotland's highlands and the islands of Orkney and Shetland. Named after Fair Isle, the southernmost Shetland Isle, the pattern consists of at least two yarns worked at alternating times.
Feedstripe
Knit fabric where a stripe pattern is produced by the way colored yarns are fed into the knitting machine. Often used for cut-and-sew knits like t-shirts and other casual knit garments.
French terry
Knit fabric that has a smooth side reversing to a looped terry backing.
Full-fashioned
A term applied to the shaping of sweaters when stitches are knitted together to shape armholes and necklines. Distinguished by "V" and "bird's eye" markings.
Back to top
G
Gabardine
Durable, tightly woven fabric made in a twill weave with distinct diagonal ribs and given a clean finish. Made of cotton, wool or rayon, gabardine wears extremely well. Commonly used for sportswear, suits, uniforms and raincoats.
Garment Dyeing
The dyeing of a garment after it has been constructed.
Gauge
The size of the knitted stitch produced by yarn thickness and size of needles, or the number of stitches per inch.
Gauze
Thin, sheer, open weave fabric typically made of cotton or silk.
Gingham
Yarn-dyed, checked or plaid fabric made of pure or blended cotton. Checked ginghams use two colors, plaid ginghams several. The name comes from the Malay word ging gang, meaning striped.
Glen plaid
A woven design that pairs small checks with larger ones of similar colors. Named for Glen Urquhart, a valley in Inverness-shire, Scotland.
Back to top
H
Hand
The characteristic of fabrics that is perceived by touching, rubbing or squeezing. A fabric's "hand" describes its tactile qualities such as softness, fineness and resilience.
Hand-loomed
Knit fabrics produced on manually operated knitting machines that have a wide range of design capabilities and offer faster production than hand knitting.
Heather
Mixed, multi-colored yarns, the fibers of which have been dyed in different shades of the same color before spinning.
Hemstitching
A decorative stitch in which several parallel yarns are removed from the fabric and the remaining cross yarns are caught together at regular intervals and encircled by embroidery thread, creating an even openwork design.
Back to top
I
Intarsia
A flat knit fabric with solid-colored, geometric patterns. The sides of the fabric are identical. Derived from the Italian for "inlay."
Interlock
A type of cut and sew knit fabric that is characterized by the interconnecting of the knit stitches.
Back to top
J
Jacquard [ja-CARD]
Elaborate woven or knitted pattern made on a Jacquard loom. Invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in France in 1801, the loom uses a punch card much like a player piano does. Some jacquard fabrics have specific names (e.g., brocade, damask and tapestry).
Jersey
A generic term for a plain knit fabric without a distinct rib. Originally made of wool, jersey fabric was first manufactured on the island of Jersey, off the coast of England.
Back to top
L
Lambswool
The first shearing of wool from lambs seven to nine months old. It is finer and softer than wool from full-grown sheep.
Leno Weave
A strong, open, mesh-like weave created by paired and intertwined yarns.
Lettuce Edge
An edge treatment on knit fabrics in which the edge of the fabric is stretched during stitching and then overstitched, resulting in a wavy or "curly" edge.
Linen
One of the oldest textile fibers, the finest linen comes from the blue-flowered flax plant grown mainly in France, Belgium and the Netherlands. Linen is breathable, comfortable in warm weather, has excellent color fastness, and is also one of the strongest natural fibers.
Lycra®
A DuPont trademark for its spandex fiber. Any time you see this fiber listed on a label, expect comfort, movement and shape retention that won't wash away.
Back to top
M
Maco Cotton
A smooth, lustrous, long-staple cotton originally derived from a cross between Egyptian tree cotton and American Sea Island cotton.
Marled yarn
Two single yarns of different colors twisted together. You see this mottled effect most often in sweaters.
Matte jersey
A dull, flat knit fabric made of fine crepe yarns.
Melange wool
A fancy yarn spun from fibers that have been printed in many shades, tones and hues.
Mercerized
Cotton yarns that have been specially treated to increase strength, smoothness and luster.
Merino wool
The world's most valuable wool produced by the Merino sheep. It is noted for softness, fineness, strength and elasticity.
Microfiber
Generic term for any synthetic fiber finer than silk. Fabrics made with microfibers are soft, lightweight, breathable and durable.
Mock Turtleneck
Shirt or sweater with a high knit collar that imitates the look of a turtleneck but does not roll down.
Modal
A generic category of manufactured fibers that have a greater ability to retain their shape when wet as well as a high breaking strength.
Mohair
A soft, long, lustrous fiber obtained from the Angora goat. The fluffy hair is springy and curly; it can be densely woven for warmth or loosely woven for breathability.
O
Organic Cotton
Cotton fiber grown in fields that have been certified as having not been treated with inorganic chemicals or pesticides for at least three years.
Oxford
Soft, porous cotton fabric made with a modified plain or basketweave, frequently used to make pajamas and shirts.
Back to top
P
Pashmina
The softest form of cashmere, spun from the ultra-fine fibers gathered from the underbelly of the Himalayan mountain goat. (Not to be confused with Shatoosh, which is the wool of slaughtered Tibetan male antelopes.)
Pick
The strand of yarn that runs left to right (weft) in a woven fabric.
Picot Trim
Small, decorative series of loops along the edge of a fabric.
Piece Dyed
Fabrics that are dyed after they have been woven or knitted.
Pima Cotton
A superior variety of cotton named after the Pima tribe of Native Americans, and grown primarily in Peru and in the southwestern US. Pima cotton has a smooth, extra-long staple that imparts a silky quality to its yarn.
Pinpoint oxford
Lightweight, soft, cotton-like fabric with a small 2x1 basket (rib) weave repeats. High quality. Very smooth surface; used for shirts.
Piping
A narrow piece of bias-cut fabric folded over and stitched into a seam between a fabric edge and facing to form a decorative trim.
Piqué [peeKAY]
A knitted cotton fabric with a waffle, or diamond-shaped, pattern. French piqué knits became an international favorite when René Lacoste, a 1920's French tennis champion, designed the polo shirt.
Piqué Knit
Knitted fabric that imitates the textural look of woven piqué fabric.
Placket
The piece of cloth that reinforces a split or opening in a garment; that usually also serves as the closure (i.e. the button placket for an oxford shirt or the zipper placket on a pair of pants).
Pointelle
Very feminine, delicate-looking rib knit fabric made with a pattern of openings.
Poplin
A durable, plain-weave fabric similar to broadcloth but with a heavier rib and heavier weight. Made of silk, cotton, synthetic fibers, wool or blends.
Princess Seaming
Continuous vertical panels that follow the shape of the body through the torso without a waistline seam.
Purl Edge
A hem that is finished without turning back the fabric and by using tightly stitched loops or a looped edge.
Back to top
R
Raglan
A sleeve where one piece of fabric extends all the way to the neckline, with slanted seams from the armhole to the neck (no shoulder seam). Traditional two-color baseball shirts are a perfect example of raglan sleeves.
Ramie
A soft, natural fiber yielded by the inner bark of various species of the ramie plant. The ramie plant is an Asian shrub with very similar characteristics to the flax plant; consequently, it is often used to produce a linen-like fabric.
Ric Rac
A narrow zig zag braid or ribbon used as a trim.
Back to top
S
Sandwashed
Treated with sand, pebbles or other abrasives in the washing process to soften the fabric.
Sateen
A semi-lustrous surface distinguishes this smooth, durable fabric in a satin weave. Sateen is usually made of cotton.
Schiffli
A type of embroidery characterized by vine-like floral pattern on sheer/mesh-like fabrics, named after the type of machine it is produced on (Schiffli machine).
Sea Island Cotton
Ultra-luxurious cotton, originally grown in the West Indies, with staples up to 2 1/2".
Seed Stitch
A knitting stitch that forms a tiny checkerboard pattern by alternating stitches of knitting and purling.
Seersucker
A popular warm-weather cotton fabric with permanent woven crinkled stripes. Launders well and generally does not need to be ironed.
Shantung
Medium weight, plain weave, silk-like fabric with pronounced slub filling yarns (slub means yarns are uneven or nubby). Used for dresses.
Shirring
The gathering of fabric to create soft, feminine folds in the garment.
Silk
A luxurious fiber created by the silkworm when constructing its cocoon. Produced primarily in China and Japan. Silk is noted for its resiliency, strength and beauty.
Smocked
Fabric that is gathered and then stitched with firm, ornamental rows of embroidery.
Soutache
Narrow, rounded braid in herringbone-weave used for trim.
Space-dyed
A yarn dyed with different colors along its length, producing a spaced or random effect of color in the knitted fabric.
Spandex
An anagram of the word "expands," Spandex is a generic term for various manmade textile fibers, made chiefly of polyurethane, which are stretchable, lightweight and resistant to body acid.
Staple
Term used to indicate lengths of fiber that require spinning and twisted to manufacture a yarn.
Stovepipe
A type of slim-cut straight legged pants that are characterized by the absence of any sort of front seam or crease.
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T
Tactel®
A soft yet durable nylon fiber trademarked by DuPont. It is extremely easy to wash, allows the skin to breathe and readily regains its shape, making it ideal for active sportswear.
Tape Yarn
A flat yarn that has been tubularly knitted or flat woven of several fine fibers. The unique shape of the yarn creates a textural appearance when used for weaving or knitting.
Tencel®
A trademark of Tencel Ltd for their brand of lyocell, a high-performance fiber used to make soft, beautifully draping fabrics. Tencel, made from wood pulp that is harvested from replenished tree farms, is environmentally sensitive and is washable.
Terry
A woven fabric, usually cotton, with loop pile on one or both sides.
Terry Velour
A terry cloth with the looped pile sheared on one side for a velvet-like effect.
Tipping
Embellishment of a garment by adding some type of trim to the edges (cuffs/pockets/plackets/hems) of a garment for decoration.
Topstitching
A line of stitching on the outside of a garment close to a seam.
Twill
A fabric that shows a distinct diagonal wale on the face (e.g., denim, gabardine, tricotine).
Twin Set
A lightweight cardigan with a matching sleeveless or short sleeved pullover, usually worn as a set.
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V
Variegated
Having streaks, marks, or patches of different colors; distinguished or characterized by a variety of different colors.
Velour
A woven or knitted fabric with a pile or napped surface resembling velvet. Originates from the French word for "velvet."
Viscose
A manufactured rayon made of regenerated cellulose. It is soft, absorbent and drapes well.
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W
Waffle Weave
A weave that produces a textured fabric with a pattern of recessed squares or similar in appearance to a waffle. Also called a "honeycomb" weave.
Wale
In a woven fabric such as corduroy, one of a series of ribs, cords or raised portions. The number of wales per inch is a measure of the fineness of the fabric. The higher the number, the finer the fabric.
Warp
The yarns found in woven fabric running vertically and interwoven into the weft.
Weft
The yarns found in woven fabric running horizontally and interwoven into the warp.
Whipstitching
A finishing stitch on the edge of a fabric that passes over the edge diagonally.
Wool
Wool is an animal protein fiber that is sheared from sheep. Wool-bearing domestic sheep are raised in almost every country of the world. There are hundreds of varieties and breeds, producing a wide range of fiber types, from ultra-soft to crisp, making wool one of the most versatile of animal fibers.
Wool Crêpe
Fine, soft, lightweight fabric in a plain weave made of crinkled or textured wool yarns that give a pebbled surface to the fabric.
Wool Jersey
Luxury fabric of worsted wool in single or double knit noted for its resilience and softness.
Worsted Wool
1. Yarn made from long fibers that have been combed, spun and then tightly twisted.
2. A smooth, woven or knitted fabric made from worsted wool yarns.
Back to top
Applique
Embellishment on a garment where decoration is made by cutting pieces of one material and applying them to the surface of another.
Argyle
A popular design for knitted fabrics (both hand and machine knit) most often used on sweaters and socks. Usually, two or three colors appear in this diamond-shaped plaid pattern named for the tartan of a clan in the county of Argyll, western Scotland.
Back to top
B
Basketweave
A weaving variation that imitates the appearance of a basket.
Batik
A traditional Indonesian textile printing method in which a design is drawn on the fabric in melted wax, covering areas that are not to be dyed. After dyeing is completed, the wax is removed.
Bird's Eye Check
A fabric woven with a pattern of small diamonds, each having a dot in the center.
Binding
A strip of fabric sewn over or attached along an edge, to secure or protect.
Blended Yarn
Yarn made from two or more fibers.
Bouclé
A fancy novelty yarn that creates a loopy, textural surface in knitting.
Back to top
C
Cable Stitch
A raised knitting stitch resembling twisted rope.
Calfskin Leather
Exceptionally fine, soft, tanned leather made from the hide of a calf.
Canvas
A strong, durable, closely woven cotton fabric popular for raincoats, handbags and boots. Originally made of unbleached hemp of flax used for sails, tents, etc. Today made in lightweight version with a soft and much drapier feel.
Carefree
Any time you see the name Carefree, expect an easy-care, machine-washable fabric. You'll find wrinkle-resistant 100% microfibers.
Cashmere
The fine, soft underfleece of cashmere goat native to the Himalayas.
Chambray
Plain weave, yarn-dyed fabric, traditionally made from cotton, having a white weft and a colored warp.
Chenille [sheh-NEEL]
Soft, fuzzy yarns stand out around a velvety cord on this fabric, whose name comes from the French word for "caterpillar." Used for bedspreads, rugs, bathrobes, and more recently, loose-fitting sweaters.
Combed cotton
Cotton fabric with a silk-like hand. Considered superior to basic carded cotton.
Cotton Fleece
Knit fabric with a pile face that, when cut and brushed, has a fleece-like surface.
Crepe
Used to describe all kinds of fabrics - wool, cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics and blends - that have a crinkly, crimped or grained surface. From the French word creper, which means "to crimp or frizz."
Crochet
The use of a single hooked needle to create fabric from a continuous series of yarn loops. From the French word for hook.
Cross-dyed
A term that refers to fabric in which the warp yarns are dyed in one color and the cross yarns are dyed another color to achieve a multi-colored or iridescent effect.
Cutwork
Embroidery in which a design is outlined in buttonhole stitch and the enclosed material cut away.
Back to top
D
Darts
V-shaped tucks used to make a garment conform to the body.
Dobby
Type of woven fabric that contains simple geometric forms or motifs, where the design on the fabric is created in the weaving process.
Double Knit
Fabric knitted with two sets of needles, producing a twice-knitted appearance. Double knit jerseys have a firmer texture than conventional jerseys of single needle construction and are usually heavier, although they can be knitted in very light weights.
Drop Needle
A type of knit cut and sew fabric where some of the needles are "dropped out."
Back to top
E
Easy Care
Fabrics that have been treated so that they do not need ironing.
Egyptian Cotton
A general classification for strong, lustrous, long-staple cotton produced largely in the Nile Valley, although it is grown elsewhere in the world as well. Egyptian cotton staples are one and one-eighth to one and one-half inches long.
Embroidery
Fancy needlework or trimming consisting of colored yarn, embroidery floss, soft cotton, silk or metallic thread. Although hand embroidery is still a widely practiced craft, most commercially produced embroidered clothes are made by machine.
Engineered print
Also called a placed print because it is integrated into a specific area of the design. Border prints are often engineered into place.
European-length
A short length that falls just above the knee. Also referred to as Bermuda length.
Back to top
F
Facing
A piece of fabric sewn to the inside of a garment for lining purposes or to add structure to the garment.
Fair Isle
A traditional type of knitted design from Scotland's highlands and the islands of Orkney and Shetland. Named after Fair Isle, the southernmost Shetland Isle, the pattern consists of at least two yarns worked at alternating times.
Feedstripe
Knit fabric where a stripe pattern is produced by the way colored yarns are fed into the knitting machine. Often used for cut-and-sew knits like t-shirts and other casual knit garments.
French terry
Knit fabric that has a smooth side reversing to a looped terry backing.
Full-fashioned
A term applied to the shaping of sweaters when stitches are knitted together to shape armholes and necklines. Distinguished by "V" and "bird's eye" markings.
Back to top
G
Gabardine
Durable, tightly woven fabric made in a twill weave with distinct diagonal ribs and given a clean finish. Made of cotton, wool or rayon, gabardine wears extremely well. Commonly used for sportswear, suits, uniforms and raincoats.
Garment Dyeing
The dyeing of a garment after it has been constructed.
Gauge
The size of the knitted stitch produced by yarn thickness and size of needles, or the number of stitches per inch.
Gauze
Thin, sheer, open weave fabric typically made of cotton or silk.
Gingham
Yarn-dyed, checked or plaid fabric made of pure or blended cotton. Checked ginghams use two colors, plaid ginghams several. The name comes from the Malay word ging gang, meaning striped.
Glen plaid
A woven design that pairs small checks with larger ones of similar colors. Named for Glen Urquhart, a valley in Inverness-shire, Scotland.
Back to top
H
Hand
The characteristic of fabrics that is perceived by touching, rubbing or squeezing. A fabric's "hand" describes its tactile qualities such as softness, fineness and resilience.
Hand-loomed
Knit fabrics produced on manually operated knitting machines that have a wide range of design capabilities and offer faster production than hand knitting.
Heather
Mixed, multi-colored yarns, the fibers of which have been dyed in different shades of the same color before spinning.
Hemstitching
A decorative stitch in which several parallel yarns are removed from the fabric and the remaining cross yarns are caught together at regular intervals and encircled by embroidery thread, creating an even openwork design.
Back to top
I
Intarsia
A flat knit fabric with solid-colored, geometric patterns. The sides of the fabric are identical. Derived from the Italian for "inlay."
Interlock
A type of cut and sew knit fabric that is characterized by the interconnecting of the knit stitches.
Back to top
J
Jacquard [ja-CARD]
Elaborate woven or knitted pattern made on a Jacquard loom. Invented by Joseph Marie Jacquard in France in 1801, the loom uses a punch card much like a player piano does. Some jacquard fabrics have specific names (e.g., brocade, damask and tapestry).
Jersey
A generic term for a plain knit fabric without a distinct rib. Originally made of wool, jersey fabric was first manufactured on the island of Jersey, off the coast of England.
Back to top
L
Lambswool
The first shearing of wool from lambs seven to nine months old. It is finer and softer than wool from full-grown sheep.
Leno Weave
A strong, open, mesh-like weave created by paired and intertwined yarns.
Lettuce Edge
An edge treatment on knit fabrics in which the edge of the fabric is stretched during stitching and then overstitched, resulting in a wavy or "curly" edge.
Linen
One of the oldest textile fibers, the finest linen comes from the blue-flowered flax plant grown mainly in France, Belgium and the Netherlands. Linen is breathable, comfortable in warm weather, has excellent color fastness, and is also one of the strongest natural fibers.
Lycra®
A DuPont trademark for its spandex fiber. Any time you see this fiber listed on a label, expect comfort, movement and shape retention that won't wash away.
Back to top
M
Maco Cotton
A smooth, lustrous, long-staple cotton originally derived from a cross between Egyptian tree cotton and American Sea Island cotton.
Marled yarn
Two single yarns of different colors twisted together. You see this mottled effect most often in sweaters.
Matte jersey
A dull, flat knit fabric made of fine crepe yarns.
Melange wool
A fancy yarn spun from fibers that have been printed in many shades, tones and hues.
Mercerized
Cotton yarns that have been specially treated to increase strength, smoothness and luster.
Merino wool
The world's most valuable wool produced by the Merino sheep. It is noted for softness, fineness, strength and elasticity.
Microfiber
Generic term for any synthetic fiber finer than silk. Fabrics made with microfibers are soft, lightweight, breathable and durable.
Mock Turtleneck
Shirt or sweater with a high knit collar that imitates the look of a turtleneck but does not roll down.
Modal
A generic category of manufactured fibers that have a greater ability to retain their shape when wet as well as a high breaking strength.
Mohair
A soft, long, lustrous fiber obtained from the Angora goat. The fluffy hair is springy and curly; it can be densely woven for warmth or loosely woven for breathability.
O
Organic Cotton
Cotton fiber grown in fields that have been certified as having not been treated with inorganic chemicals or pesticides for at least three years.
Oxford
Soft, porous cotton fabric made with a modified plain or basketweave, frequently used to make pajamas and shirts.
Back to top
P
Pashmina
The softest form of cashmere, spun from the ultra-fine fibers gathered from the underbelly of the Himalayan mountain goat. (Not to be confused with Shatoosh, which is the wool of slaughtered Tibetan male antelopes.)
Pick
The strand of yarn that runs left to right (weft) in a woven fabric.
Picot Trim
Small, decorative series of loops along the edge of a fabric.
Piece Dyed
Fabrics that are dyed after they have been woven or knitted.
Pima Cotton
A superior variety of cotton named after the Pima tribe of Native Americans, and grown primarily in Peru and in the southwestern US. Pima cotton has a smooth, extra-long staple that imparts a silky quality to its yarn.
Pinpoint oxford
Lightweight, soft, cotton-like fabric with a small 2x1 basket (rib) weave repeats. High quality. Very smooth surface; used for shirts.
Piping
A narrow piece of bias-cut fabric folded over and stitched into a seam between a fabric edge and facing to form a decorative trim.
Piqué [peeKAY]
A knitted cotton fabric with a waffle, or diamond-shaped, pattern. French piqué knits became an international favorite when René Lacoste, a 1920's French tennis champion, designed the polo shirt.
Piqué Knit
Knitted fabric that imitates the textural look of woven piqué fabric.
Placket
The piece of cloth that reinforces a split or opening in a garment; that usually also serves as the closure (i.e. the button placket for an oxford shirt or the zipper placket on a pair of pants).
Pointelle
Very feminine, delicate-looking rib knit fabric made with a pattern of openings.
Poplin
A durable, plain-weave fabric similar to broadcloth but with a heavier rib and heavier weight. Made of silk, cotton, synthetic fibers, wool or blends.
Princess Seaming
Continuous vertical panels that follow the shape of the body through the torso without a waistline seam.
Purl Edge
A hem that is finished without turning back the fabric and by using tightly stitched loops or a looped edge.
Back to top
R
Raglan
A sleeve where one piece of fabric extends all the way to the neckline, with slanted seams from the armhole to the neck (no shoulder seam). Traditional two-color baseball shirts are a perfect example of raglan sleeves.
Ramie
A soft, natural fiber yielded by the inner bark of various species of the ramie plant. The ramie plant is an Asian shrub with very similar characteristics to the flax plant; consequently, it is often used to produce a linen-like fabric.
Ric Rac
A narrow zig zag braid or ribbon used as a trim.
Back to top
S
Sandwashed
Treated with sand, pebbles or other abrasives in the washing process to soften the fabric.
Sateen
A semi-lustrous surface distinguishes this smooth, durable fabric in a satin weave. Sateen is usually made of cotton.
Schiffli
A type of embroidery characterized by vine-like floral pattern on sheer/mesh-like fabrics, named after the type of machine it is produced on (Schiffli machine).
Sea Island Cotton
Ultra-luxurious cotton, originally grown in the West Indies, with staples up to 2 1/2".
Seed Stitch
A knitting stitch that forms a tiny checkerboard pattern by alternating stitches of knitting and purling.
Seersucker
A popular warm-weather cotton fabric with permanent woven crinkled stripes. Launders well and generally does not need to be ironed.
Shantung
Medium weight, plain weave, silk-like fabric with pronounced slub filling yarns (slub means yarns are uneven or nubby). Used for dresses.
Shirring
The gathering of fabric to create soft, feminine folds in the garment.
Silk
A luxurious fiber created by the silkworm when constructing its cocoon. Produced primarily in China and Japan. Silk is noted for its resiliency, strength and beauty.
Smocked
Fabric that is gathered and then stitched with firm, ornamental rows of embroidery.
Soutache
Narrow, rounded braid in herringbone-weave used for trim.
Space-dyed
A yarn dyed with different colors along its length, producing a spaced or random effect of color in the knitted fabric.
Spandex
An anagram of the word "expands," Spandex is a generic term for various manmade textile fibers, made chiefly of polyurethane, which are stretchable, lightweight and resistant to body acid.
Staple
Term used to indicate lengths of fiber that require spinning and twisted to manufacture a yarn.
Stovepipe
A type of slim-cut straight legged pants that are characterized by the absence of any sort of front seam or crease.
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T
Tactel®
A soft yet durable nylon fiber trademarked by DuPont. It is extremely easy to wash, allows the skin to breathe and readily regains its shape, making it ideal for active sportswear.
Tape Yarn
A flat yarn that has been tubularly knitted or flat woven of several fine fibers. The unique shape of the yarn creates a textural appearance when used for weaving or knitting.
Tencel®
A trademark of Tencel Ltd for their brand of lyocell, a high-performance fiber used to make soft, beautifully draping fabrics. Tencel, made from wood pulp that is harvested from replenished tree farms, is environmentally sensitive and is washable.
Terry
A woven fabric, usually cotton, with loop pile on one or both sides.
Terry Velour
A terry cloth with the looped pile sheared on one side for a velvet-like effect.
Tipping
Embellishment of a garment by adding some type of trim to the edges (cuffs/pockets/plackets/hems) of a garment for decoration.
Topstitching
A line of stitching on the outside of a garment close to a seam.
Twill
A fabric that shows a distinct diagonal wale on the face (e.g., denim, gabardine, tricotine).
Twin Set
A lightweight cardigan with a matching sleeveless or short sleeved pullover, usually worn as a set.
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V
Variegated
Having streaks, marks, or patches of different colors; distinguished or characterized by a variety of different colors.
Velour
A woven or knitted fabric with a pile or napped surface resembling velvet. Originates from the French word for "velvet."
Viscose
A manufactured rayon made of regenerated cellulose. It is soft, absorbent and drapes well.
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W
Waffle Weave
A weave that produces a textured fabric with a pattern of recessed squares or similar in appearance to a waffle. Also called a "honeycomb" weave.
Wale
In a woven fabric such as corduroy, one of a series of ribs, cords or raised portions. The number of wales per inch is a measure of the fineness of the fabric. The higher the number, the finer the fabric.
Warp
The yarns found in woven fabric running vertically and interwoven into the weft.
Weft
The yarns found in woven fabric running horizontally and interwoven into the warp.
Whipstitching
A finishing stitch on the edge of a fabric that passes over the edge diagonally.
Wool
Wool is an animal protein fiber that is sheared from sheep. Wool-bearing domestic sheep are raised in almost every country of the world. There are hundreds of varieties and breeds, producing a wide range of fiber types, from ultra-soft to crisp, making wool one of the most versatile of animal fibers.
Wool Crêpe
Fine, soft, lightweight fabric in a plain weave made of crinkled or textured wool yarns that give a pebbled surface to the fabric.
Wool Jersey
Luxury fabric of worsted wool in single or double knit noted for its resilience and softness.
Worsted Wool
1. Yarn made from long fibers that have been combed, spun and then tightly twisted.
2. A smooth, woven or knitted fabric made from worsted wool yarns.
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